MATERIALS USED FOR TYING FLIES FOR USE IN FLY FISHING

 

There are endless amounts of material for fly tiers on the market today. It is important for the flytier to learn about each material and what it is used for before investing in a product. Types of materials used most often are thread, feathers, furs or hairs, wool, chenille and other synthetic materials.

Thread: When selecting the proper thread to use you want to take a few things into consideration: Color, strength and diameter. Today, synthetic threads have replaced older silk varieties becoming the standard. They are more durable than silk and come in an endless variety of colors and diameters. A good rule is to use the thinnest diameter thread you can for securing materials without breaking it. For most trout flies size 12 and up, I suggest size 8/0; it gives you less bulk. Some say 6/0 is the standard, but I disagree. As your flies get smaller and sparser you can use threads as thin as 14/0. For spinning hair, Kevlar is virtually unbreakable. You can even use a thin monocord line for other purposes such as saltwater and bass patterns. Synthetic threads are available in polyester and nylon. Polyester seems to be a bit stronger and does not stretch as much as nylon. Threads also come waxed or unwaxed. A waxed thread will not fray as much as one, which is unwaxed. Most say a waxed thread is better for dubbing adherence. There is such an unnoticeable amount of wax applied during manufacturing that I do not see it making much of a difference. In either case, waxed threads are more popular. Nylon floss is better used when body coverage and strength are an issue. It is flatter and covers more area. When tying, try to match your thread color as best you can to the overall color of the fly. Experimenting with different threads for different purposes is very important and whatever diameter you end up using will be of personal preference.

Feathers: There are such a wide variety of feathers on the market today that an entire website can be devoted to this subject. In this section you will get an overview of hackle. Feathers can be used to dress almost every part of a fly and it is extremely important to know which feather to use, from what bird, for what application. Quality feathers are key in tying a good fly. A typical feather has common parts.(feather.jpg) Barbs are the portions of the feather that comes out from the stem or vane. The lower portion of the feather has fluffy barbs, which are rarely used. As you move up the feather you have a portion of barbs with webbing in them. Webbing is caused by very small hair-like structures called barbules. These barbules interlock near the vane and hold the barbs together. Finally, towards the tip of the feather an un-webbed portion of barbs. Hackle is one of the most important materials for Dry flies. Dry fly hackle comes from a rooster in two forms: Capes and Saddles. The cape or "neck" comes from the neck of the bird and has a wide variety of size feathers. This is the Ideal dry fly feather. The larger feathers on each side of the cape are called spade hackle. The saddle comes from the back of the rooster and has longer, similar size feathers. You will generally see more webbing which makes these better used for wet flies, Although, with the genetic breading of birds today, there are some excellent saddles that can be used for tying dries in certain sizes. When choosing hackle, quality counts. You will end up being frustrated if you do not spend the extra money. For dry flies you want to use stiff, web-free hackle and for wet flies a softer hackle. Hackle is usually graded in three categories. With Necks, a #3 is usually adequate for tying most flies. A #2 gives you a longer and denser feather and a #1 gives you everything you need for tying up to #26 Midges. These are very dense individual feathers (high barb counts) and each neck has a high feather count. With saddles, the same applies except you are not getting the variety of sizes. Most saddles will give you 2 or 3 Dry fly sizes and will also give you a greater length feather than a neck will. Because of the length of the saddle feathers, you can tie a longer sub-surface fly with a palmered body. Even though all farms grade their necks, you can usually tell for yourself. Here are a couple of tips.

  1. Feather count: Turn the neck over and look at the bumps on the skin. Each bump represents a feather. This is a good way to compare feather counts.
  2. Webbing: See how much usable feather there is. With a dry fly you want a stiff barb, you want as little webbing as possible. Webbing absorbs water, which will take buoyancy away from the fly. When looking at hackle for a wet fly, use a premium grade hen neck. These necks are more suitable for collaring wet flies. They have more webbing, which absorbs water, and are softer.
  3. Barb count: The more barbs, the less wraps. A high barb count also means a stiffer feather.
  4. Straightness: The straighter the feather the less chances of it twisting on you while your wrapping around the hook.
  5. Length: Longer feathers usually mean more usable feather area. On some necks and saddles, you can get more than one fly out of a feather.

Wing feathers are taken from the primary wing of a turkey, goose or duck. These are used for wings on wets and dries and are groups cut from matching primary feathers.

Body feathers come from the breast, flank or back of a bird. They are used primarily for wings on all types of flies.

Furs and Hairs: Fur is found closest to the skin of the animal and is used primarily for dubbing bodies. Different animal fur is used for dubbing different flies. More popular furs are rabbit, muskrat, squirrel, goat and red fox. Some, "buggier" than others. With the combination of different furs, you can get a pretty good replication of the natural body shape and color of an insect. Animal hair is a very common material used for tails and wings. Some hair is hollower than others and is better when you need the hair to flare. Deer, moose, elk, and calf tail are some of the more common hairs used for wings and tails.

Wool and Chenille: Mostly used for body material on sub-surface flies, wool has a high absorbency and will help get the fly down faster. Chenille is also used for bodies and comes in a wider range of colors.

Synthetics: Synthetic materials are used for all parts of the fly. They are more durable than natural material and you can use certain synthetic formed material for realistic wings, legs and bodies.

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